Suit Tailoring Series: Hemming Suit Pants

One of my favorite operations in the entire shop: the humble pant hem!

This is a really interesting procedure because though it is one of the most common things we do it is also capital intensive; what I mean by that is the knowledge, machines, and tools required to complete this simple procedure take years to learn and acquire.

Though we are just essentially measuring, cutting and turning up the edge of the fabric, the equipment and the knowledge required to perform this procedure have taken quite a while to perfect, and I am excited to share these tips and tricks with you now!

The items you need are: a rotary blade, cutting mat, sergering machine, three or four cones of the same color thread, blind hemmer, blind hemming thread, and a measuring tape.

Though this procedure can surely be done by hand entirely, in our fast paced shop this is the production style way that we hem suit pants, which is exactly how pants are hemmed in the factories where they are made.

We will begin by measuring out the pants and quickly slicing them, then we’ll serge the raw edge of the fabric, turn and press the seam allowance up and finish by running the edge under our blind hemmer.

Follow along with the video below to find out how we successfully complete this process!

Then look below the video for links to all of the tools and equipment we’ve used here.

To catch up on all the ground we’ve covered, look back through the previous posts and read the entries starting with ‘Suit Tailoring Series’! Thanks for join us!

Tailor’s Tools:

Thread Snippers

Blind Hem Thread

Serger Thread Cones

Serger

Blind Hemmer

Rotary Cutter

Cutting Mat

Cut Resistant Gloves

Tailor’s Clapper

Gravity Fed Iron

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Sewing Technique: Narrow Rolled Hem

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Suit Tailoring Series: Fitting Suit Pants